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Wind Starts the Motion
Big waves begin with wind blowing across the ocean’s surface. The stronger the wind and the longer it blows, the more energy it transfers into the water.

 

Distance and Time Matter
When wind travels over long distances, called fetch, waves have more space to grow. Over time, small ripples build into powerful swells.

 

From Swell to Giant Wave
As swells reach shallow water near coasts, they slow down and rise, forming the large, crashing waves we see.